Today’s route follows the traces of two former Prague railway lines and one siding. We will visit former traditional industrial areas that are slowly being transformed into new neighborhoods.
Těšnov, Rohanský Island, Libeň, Vysočany, Hrdlořezy, Žižkov, Main Railway Station
route length: 17 km
mapa
cycling (1 hour)
walking (4 hours)
Route along former railway lines.
Source: IPR PragueWhat to do with railway tracks that are no longer in use?
Following the example of other European cities, some disused railway lines in Prague have recently been transformed into pleasant paths, mostly with asphalt surfaces. This makes it possible to reach places that were originally planned exclusively for trains on foot or by bike. Incidentally, the latest project of this type is being prepared in Strašnice. The so-called Railway Promenade is also one of Prague’s priorities in the current exhibition at CAMP.
Těšnov Station, when the building has to make way for the arterial road
We start in the center, on the border of the Prague Heritage Reservation in Těšnov, where 50 years ago the now defunct Austrian Northwest Railway ended. The Neo-Renaissance station building, designed by Czech architect Carl Schlimp, was built between 1872 and 1885. A hundred years later, however, due to the low usage of the entire railway, it had to make way for the construction of the North-South Highway. The last passenger train left Těšnov station on 1 July 1972, and we will follow in its footsteps towards the Vltava River. By the way, the remains of the station building, which did not obstruct the highway, stood here until 1985, when it was decided they would be demolished by blasting.
The building of the former Těšnov station stood in the way of the construction of the Prague highway, so it was demolished in 1985.
Source: Archive of the Prague City HallLiběň – Lower Station
We will ride along the right bank of the Vltava River, where the A2 backbone cycle route runs. The columns of the former traction line, located approximately where you will find Přístav 186 00 today, are a reminder of the former railway line. We continue on to the site where the Rohan City district will be built in the future, pass the Invalidovna building, and leave the busy cycle path by turning into Vojenova Street (behind Kaufland). This is exactly where the tracks led to the next station on the line. It was called Prague – Libeň Lower Station, and today you will find only a single dilapidated building in this place. The line continued to Palmovka, led through Na Žertvách Street, and after Balabenka, it connected to the existing line after crossing the Rokytka stream. We will reach this point by a more comfortable route—and along the way you can stop for a coffee (Alf & Bet) or a beer (Kolčavka Brewery).
Remains of traction line poles still remain along the road.
Source: IPR PragueEmergency colonies from the First Republic
I highly recommend visiting one of the few preserved emergency colonies, Na Hájku and Na Kotlasce, which were built during the First Republic. Through them, you can get to Rokytka, which flows into the Vltava River a short distance away, but we will go upstream along the A26 cycle path in the opposite direction to Vysočany.
To this day, narrow streets can be found in the settlement of Kotlaska.
Source: IPR PragueWorth mentioning is the recently opened underpass beneath the busy Čuprova Street, behind which we come to the remains of a railway viaduct. Here you can still find the remains of the track, which a few meters further on connected to the existing railway leading to Vysočany station and further out of Prague.
On the A26 cycle path, you will also pass the remains of the railway viaduct at Kolčavka.
Source: IPR PragueThe ČKD siding and a 100-meter-high building
Another dominant feature on our route is one of the tallest residential buildings in Czechia, the nearly 100-meter-high Eliška residence, which was completed in 2013. Behind this building, we connect to the former ČKD “Lokomotivka” siding, which has now been converted into a busy bike path. In its vicinity, you can see several artifacts reminiscent of the recent past, most often railroad ties or embankments. We are in the center of the former industrial area of Vysočany, which is gradually being transformed into a new district and will accommodate tens of thousands of residents in the future. After crossing the former railway bridge over Poděbradská Street, we will cross to Hořejší Pond and behind it, we finally say goodbye to the former railway siding that used to continue to today’s Libeň station.
The ČKD siding.
Source: the Dvě Prahy (Two Pragues) appRokytka, restoring its original riverbed
We pass under the viaduct of the main railway line to Kolín and arrive at the newly renovated park on Smetanka, a pleasant place to sit for a while. Five years ago, the artificially straightened riverbed of Rokytka was replaced by meanders, restoring the stream to its natural state. At the end of the park we find ourselves in Hrdlořezy, where a rather steep climb awaits us along a garden colony up to the Třešňovka Hill, offering beautiful views over Prague. There is a cherry tree alley here, goats grazing on the slopes, and below the slope there is a lively bustle of garbage trucks, as the Prague Services have their headquarters here.
Comparison of the reconstruction of the Rokytka stream, where the artificially straightened channel was replaced by meanders.
Source: the Dvě Prahy (Two Pragues) appThe Turnov-Kralupy-Prague Railway
Once we have enjoyed the view, we cross Spojovací Street and head towards another former track, the Turnov-Kralupy-Prague Railway. Completed in 1882, it also contributed to the creation of today’s Prague Main Station. The line to the new railway station led around Vítkov Hill through a short tunnel, which was the highest railway tunnel in Prague until the line was closed in 2008. And this is exactly where we are headed. But first, we have to get to Krejcárek, where we can easily connect to the former line. We have two options—if you are walking or have a bike for lighter terrain, definitely go from Třešňovka directly into the forest, where there are paths trodden not only by the residents of the extensive Balkán garden colony from 1938. The second option is to take the busy Novovysočanská Street, which now has a separate lane for cyclists, but the traffic here is really heavy. And we’re back on the track. The stretch with views of Vysočany, Libeň, and Karlín will take you to the Vítkov Tunnel. Once you pass through it, you’ll find yourself in Žižkov. Enjoy the unusual views of this district and, above all, the gentle downhill ride to to the finish at the Main Railway Station. You can end your trip in one of Žižkov’s many pubs or cafés.